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Sewing, Style & Creative Writing
  • Vogue Dress V8766: Fitting Issues

    Posted on 17/01/2014 by David in The Women I Sew For.


    Time for a new dress from Pattern V8766 which may be familiar to those of you who’ve signed up for an online Craftsy class called “Sew the Perfect Fit” by Lynda Maynard. That’s how I got the pattern anyway! If anyone is interested in a bit of feedback about the class, Lynda offers a variety of solutions to the most common fitting issues while working on a muslin. It involves thread marking all horizontal and vertical references on each pattern piece so that any adjustment can be transferred in a timely manner onto the paper pattern. This is clearly a time-consuming task so I’ve decided to skip that stage altogether and work directly on the main fabric instead (no offence Lynda, I still love your class!).

    Ok, let’s get down to a few facts:

    -The dress is for my friend Nadia and she would like the bodice from model D and the skirt from model F. She’s quite picky, isn’t she? 🙂

     

    -Here is the fabric; it’s more of a summer dress really!

     

    -There was however one major problem from the start. I only had 2 metres of fabric and it wasn’t enough to cut the skirt front on the fold and 2 skirt backs. I thought I would have to revert to the pencil skirt type on model D but decided to give my friend Rita a call just in case. She told me I could still achieve the flared skirt effect by using six panels instead of three based on my friend’s waist size. I therefore divided her waist measurement by six and added extra for seam allowances (I didn’t add anything extra for ease as I know she likes her dresses quite fitted). As for the skirt hem, I followed the same guidelines as the pattern dividing the total by six while taking into account Nadia’s waist to knee measurement. I drew one panel onto a piece of newspaper and this is what I got (a lot more manageable if you are short of fabric and still want to make sure the grainline is parallel to the selvedge when cutting the fabric).

     

    This is one of the pieces I cut out of the six (although the piece where the zip goes had to be cut in half so that the panels look evenly proportioned at the back).

     

    Regarding the bodice, I used Nadia’s waist measurement to match the skirt and added an extra 6 cm for ease to her bust measurement before making those adjustments onto the pattern (you may notice I didn’t redraw the bust dart correctly and it proved a bit of a challenge when sewing the dart temporarily).

     

    So that’s it for now. I have sewn the skirt and bodice on temporary seams and will meet my friend next week to arrange a fitting. It’s my first fitting all by myself on someone else so wish me luck! 🙂

2 Responses so far.

  1. Maddie says:

    You’re a great sewing friend! Good luck with the dress. I like the direction it’s headed.

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