That’s it! The Vogue trousers V8940 are now completed and that turned out to be an interesting challenge with a few lessons learnt along the way.
Last time, I discussed my fitting issues and how I sorted them out…or so I thought at the time. The trousers circumference above my hips was too big by approximately 3 inches when I used the wool fabric. I went back to check my muslin and my calculations but couldn’t find any obvious mistakes.
What I had failed to take into account was the slight level of elasticity of the wool fabric running in the direction of the grainline. The wool may have been partly blended with elastane or something similar but it completely threw off the calculations I did on my rigid muslin fabric. I ended up recutting 5/8 inch on all 4 side seams and an extra 3/8 inch for the back seams. Believe it or not but when I made those adjustments on my pattern, I ended exactly on the size 36 line around the hips before joining the size 34 line below hip level. So much for making a muslin! It just shows how pointless a muslin is if not made in a similar fabric but it also makes me wonder if my initial calculations would have been accurate if I had chosen a fabric like linen instead…
Instead of serging all my seams I decided to use orange binding which is rather bold but I kind of like it.
The pain of pinning the fabric squares before cutting the fabric paid off and it’s all matching perfectly at side seam level.
These back pockets were a pleasure to make compared to double welt pockets (I’m sure you get my drift).
I’m happy with the results and I’m glad I’ve successfully overcome the fitting issues even if it took some fiddling around. They are super comfy although the adjustments I redid on the sides meant that the side fronts are now marginally reduced. I also need to improve the presentation of the waistband facing and find a better technique to do it properly. I am quite keen on achieving a professional pair of trousers so I’d like to purchase a good book to help me reach that goal. Any recommendations welcome!