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Sewing, Style & Creative Writing
  • Vogue Trousers V8940 Completed

    Posted on 14/01/2014 by David in My Handmade Closet.


     

    That’s it! The Vogue trousers V8940 are now completed and that turned out to be an interesting challenge with a few lessons learnt along the way.

    Last time, I discussed my fitting issues and how I sorted them out…or so I thought at the time. The trousers circumference above my hips was too big by approximately 3 inches when I used the wool fabric. I went back to check my muslin and my calculations but couldn’t find any obvious mistakes.

    What I had failed to take into account was the slight level of elasticity of the wool fabric running in the direction of the grainline. The wool may have been partly blended with elastane or something similar but it completely threw off the calculations I did on my rigid muslin fabric.  I ended up recutting 5/8 inch on all 4 side seams and an extra 3/8 inch for the back seams. Believe it or not but when I made those adjustments on my pattern, I ended exactly on the size 36 line around the hips before joining the size 34 line below hip level. So much for making a muslin!  It just shows how pointless a muslin is if not made in a similar fabric but it also makes me wonder if my initial calculations would have been accurate if I had chosen a fabric like linen instead…

    Instead of serging  all my seams I decided to use orange binding which is rather bold but I kind of like it.

     

    The pain of pinning the fabric squares before cutting the fabric paid off and it’s all matching  perfectly at side seam level.

     

    These back pockets were a pleasure to make compared to double welt pockets (I’m sure you get my drift).

     

    I’m happy with the results and I’m glad I’ve successfully overcome the fitting issues even if it took some fiddling around. They are super comfy although the adjustments I redid on the sides meant that the side fronts are now marginally reduced. I also need to improve the presentation of the waistband facing and find a better technique to do it properly. I am quite keen on achieving a professional pair of trousers so I’d like to purchase a good book to help me reach that goal. Any recommendations welcome!

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17 Responses so far.

  1. Brian says:

    The pants look great! I’ve just begun to sew again after a hiatus of about 30 years so I’m no expert, but I have found “Making Trousers” by David Page Coffin to be useful.

    • David says:

      Thanks Brian! I’ve heard of the David Coffin book as a classic so I will investigate it further. Good luck with all your sewing projects!

  2. Peter says:

    David, those are super-cute, and congratulations on the plaid matching.

    This post of mine from a few years ago may help with the waistband issue(s):

    http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2012/06/waistband-wonderland-installing-hook.html

    • David says:

      Thanks Peter! I had a good read and learnt a couple of new things regarding the use of hair canvas on the waistband facing and also the fact you sew the extensions after closing the main waistband (I used to do that in one go and my extension was sometimes smaller than the waistband itself). I need to perfect my “stitch in the ditch” which was a bit uneven in the past when looking on the inside. I tried to follow the patterns instructions this time but it didn’t make too much sense when asked to bind the lower edges of the waistband facing. I couldn’t turn the edges inside as it would create too much bulk and still felt that I needed to stitch in the ditch anyway and then hand sew the waistband facing to close it properly as it was much lower. I will investigate the binding of the waistband facing but not sure it is necessary. Great advice on your blog on how to sew the hook-and-eye closure. Thanks again Peter.

  3. Maddie says:

    I love these pants! My favorite part? The contrast binding on the inside!

  4. Wil says:

    Nice pants! I think your version looks so much better than Vogue’s. It is the extra touches like the orange binding that always give your projects that Je ne sais quoi.

  5. Delgado says:

    Je n’y connais absolument rien en technique de Haute Couture mais je suis ravie de voir mon fils “poser” en mannequin, grand mince et svelte en un mot LA CLASSE !

    PS petit détail, il me semble que le lacet de ta chaussure droite est défait lol

    • David says:

      Le lacet n’est pas défait, il est mal fait! lol…merci pour le gentil compliment. Comme quoi on n’est jamais trop vieux pour faire le mannequin 🙂

  6. Steven says:

    I really like the pants. You have the width really perfect, it is a great profile. I would have them shorter for myself but it is all the style that you like. I might just make some myself. Thanks for showing me how it is done.

    • David says:

      Thank you Steven. Looking back at the pictures, I would have liked them a little bit shorter for myself too!

      • Steven says:

        You did such a great job with the seam binding. I just want to go out and buy some bright coloured binding myself to do the same thing.

  7. oonaballoona says:

    erm, as far as i can tell, you HAVE achieved the perfect pair of professional pants. those guts are gorgeous, to say nothing of that perfectly matched plaid!

  8. Hello, your pant looks really great ! I’ve done the jacket and I’m begining with this pant. I’m happy to see the result…the Vogue patterns suit very well. I’m asking myself on the way to “custom” mine…. I hope I’ll manage to realize such a good job ! Congratulations.

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